Saldanha Bay, South Africa

I chose to stop at Saldanha Bay about 50 nm north of Cape Town mainly to clear out of South Africa. The process was relatively new for Saldanha Bay and was reported to be much more streamlined than clearing out at Cape Town, the alternative. That turned out to be the case.

I was able to book a berth at the small marina at Yachtport in Saldanha Bay. They primarily do maintenance on boats, especially hull maintenance on large boats because they have the only 100 ton travel lift in South Africa. A travel lift is a large steel frame on wheels with heavy straps that are placed under the boat while it’s in the water.  Electric winches on the travel lift hoist the boat out of the water so it can be moved to a place on dry land ( “on the hard” in boat lingo).  Once there, fixed supports are used to hold the boat so the travel lift can be released for another job.  The process is reversed to put the boat back in the water.

Of course, I didn’t need  the travel lift service having just done this in Richards Bay where I had the hull cleaned and new anti-fouling paint applied.  Incidentally, Phywave was much faster in the water after that work, at least a knot or more. It pays to have a clean hull.

Given the technicians on-site at Yachtport, I had them do a few maintenance items, like an oil change in the Volvo-Penta D2-50 engine. I also had them clean one side of my dual Racor diesel fuel filter and replace the 10 micron filter cartridge. I furnished the filters and oil which I already had on board.  All this was in preparation for crossing the Atlantic and avoiding any potential problems along the way. I won’t have any serious help with engine problems, or get new filters or parts, until I reach the Caribbean.

I also took the opportunity to add to my provisions. With a rental car I visited the Checkers supermarkets in 2 large malls that are within about a 20 minute drive from Yachtport.

The biggest thing I did while in Saldanha Bay was change my route. Since being in South Africa people have been telling me how great Namibia is, that I really should stop there. In particular, a cruiser I met in Hout Bay who is from Namibia gave me some specific information on where to go and what to see.  I vacillated for several days over whether to go. This voyage is beginning to wear on me so I’m anxious to complete my 7 continents mission by returning to North America.  However, I realized I would probably never pass this way again so if I ever wanted to see Namibia, now is the time. Secondarily, I didn’t want to arrive in the Caribbean too soon, like over the Christmas and  New Years holidays when the place will no doubt be jammed with boats and people.  Some further delay, like a stop in Namibia, would help.

With those two factors in mind, I decided to head for Namibia to be followed by St. Helena on my original itinerary.  I left Yachtport Friday,  November 8, at 1200z, headed north to Walvis Bay with very favorable winds forecast along the route.

Entrance head to Saldanha Bay.
There were many whales as I approached Saldanha Bay, two laying directly in front of me 50 meters away. I had to make a quick, radical course change to miss them. Of course, once I grabbed my camera they were already in their way under water.
Busy Saldanha port loading ships with iron ore
Phywave at Yachtport
My friend’s 60 foot catamaran Nesi being hoisted by the travel lift.
Lighthouse and crashing waves departing Saldanha Bay